Cnc Robotic Arm Software
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THIS PROJECT IS DONE. STOP LIKING IT.
UGH.Go here instead:-In September of 2015, a five axis industrial robot arm able to lift a kilo started at $10,000 USD.In October of 2015 Marginally Clever Robots, Ltd introduced the Evil Minion and brought the starting price down to $2000. Since then we've been working to improve our offer with easier manufacture, more reliability, and greater ease of assembly.I see an opportunity for low cost arms to serve small industry, hobbyists, and schools. I want to drive the cost down even more by making an arm that others can tinker with, improve on, and build community around. I'd like to see two arms assemble a third.Tell SpaceX and RocketLabUSA I need their rockets - lets put Marginally Clever Robots to work building a lunar colony. Thirsty for robots?
This is a render in Fusion360 of our up-to-date model of the Sixi 2 robot arm. So you can get started making it today.Also the Robot Overlord app has been updated to do IK and FK calculations on the arm, meaning it will be easy to train it for various applications. My first goal is to make it pour a beer. My second is to work on self assembly.
If I can get these arms to assemble their sisters. It's the last time I'll build a robot by hand.You can follow my or through. at 01:51. I was up until 4:30am last night working on the fifth attempt to design the arm.
Cnc Robotic Arm Software For Sale
Previous post on were of (at best) study 4. I reached a point in the design where I'd found enough mistakes that it was easier to restart and use the existing design files as a reference to do a better job. I believe that - after three days of work - I've got something that solves all my previous issues and has fewer prints.With lessons from the previous attempts, this time I built things in large passes:place all the things that can't be negotiated (bearings, motors, screws in motor faces). build the bones to hold the parts together as rough blocks. plan where to cut the bones for printing. add the screw holes, screws, and nuts to each block. cut the bones into pieces.
calculate bill of materials. order missing mechanical parts. adjust each piece for printer tolerance and print. Here are some pics from the 6 axis model I'm currently working on.As I print and assemble each part I check it against the model. More efficient than building an entire model in a vacuum and finding I made mistakes. Maybe it couldn't be done without an existing, purely-vacuum model as a reference.
Hard to say from the other side!The design files for this version are on Patreon.You can wait until it's for sale or chip in a little now, get the files early, and support development. Your call. at 17:59.
I'm deep into preparing for a new product launch, and then finishing. My winter project is to make a new arm and integrate it with, which still needs a way to record/play back every robot it supports. I'm also putting together a team to build a new game based on my design doc, which should eat 6 months and cost 100k.All of which is to say I'm really busy and I need all the help I can get. Everywhere.There is a growing number of open source robot arms, which is super. I only build one because I can't get one at an affordable price. So if you're making an arm, please let me add Robot Overlord support and together I hope we can achieve greater things.Build Instructions. I tried to design it in inventor (with involute curves instead of hypocyloid curves).
What seems to work in our situation (diameter of 5cm, teeth height of at least 2mm (module 0,8) is a ratio of 120 teeth to 112 teeth which gives you 1:15 gear ratio after all. If I try to increase the gear ratio (my goal would be 1:20, since that is what I required in my bot Walter), either Inventor claims that the involute curves do cut themselves or the teeth need an unprintable small height. If you accept a diameter of 80cm, 1:20 is achievable.BTW: do you consider to integrate an encoder?Are you sure?. 50mm is pretty small, both for manufacturing with standard FDM and M3 hardware, but also for the pressure on your teeth and the strength limitations of using plastic gears. 80mm is more like it but I worry that even that will be unable to take e.g. 20 Nm (unless perhaps you use stronger filaments that are harder to print).I did think about the encoder - see the link I posted above about the 'hoverboard' motor and the BLDC I linked to below.
Both would need encoders for phase control of the ESC. However, I think you're talking about an output shaft encoder for closed loop control. Thinking about this but I'm not actually making an arm, so it would really depend on the control system that each builder was using.
There's definitely potential to build one in to the mechanism, away from the motor perhaps for a magnetic sensor.Are you sure?. My shoulder arm had a max torque of 30Nm, but I used T2.5 timing belts, meaning in average I had 40 teeth to take the force, equally distributed by the belt. But backlash is poor (arround 3°). I could compensate that with a closed loop via encoder and a fancy non-linear controller, but I never felt comfortable with electronic compensation of a mechanical issue. In my current sketch with 140 / 148 teeth typically 15 teeth would take the force, but very much relying on the print-precision, and not equally distributed. Finally, I think that your idea of a having a timing belt as internal gear would improve force-distribution across involed teeth a lot.
I print with high-temperature ABS, never had an issue with broken teeth in T2.5Are you sure?. Hi guys, if the 3d plastic is too weak, I can recommend to reenforce it with carbon rods that are glued into designed holes. I got this trick from the Dexter arm/Haddington. This makes it much stiffer and eases PID tuning, since this dampens the osscillation as well. I had a hard time in tuning the PID to different load-situation: tuning it with a small load is easy, but higher loads need different P&D factors.
When gravity force varies as well due to joint angle this gets even worse.Are you sure?. Have you considered these BLDC motors with planetary gearboxes and encoders?The driver appears to be included, in that you control through PWM, direction logic line and start/enable logic line. Looking at the sizing, if you can live with lower RPM on your output stage, they would appear to be small/light for a given torque rating. For example, your 20Nm application might select the GSP42M530SH316. At 24V, rated for 18.8Nm at 3.8 RPM, with a max torque of 28Nm (presumably slower RPM/stall torque).In comparison, I can't tell from your instagram post of the motors when they arrived but it looks like a geared NEMA 23, such as:would be a torque equivalent(ish). It's 1.7kg vs 0.5kg for the BLDC.
I think you're using this one at the shoulder(?) so the weight is less of an issue but that pattern probably scales down to the smaller units. Also don't know what RPM a 47.1 geared down NEMA 23 output shaft could achieve.I realise that none of this addresses any potential backlash of the planetary gearboxes and you'd perhaps want to combine (ignore) the input encoder built into the BLDC with (in favour of) encoders on the joints for closed loop but they seem roughly the same cost ballpark and through reduced mass may help reduce the moments your lower(?) degree of freedom joints will have to overcome.Are you sure?. That's interesting - one advantage of a 3D printed hypocycloidal or strain wave gear is that it allows you to transfer torque without high forces near the axis. I'm sure a keyed shaft adapter wouldn't be too hard/expensive to make. Is that something near the top of your list?And by 'last design', are you talking about Study No.5?I have no idea about PID tuning DC motor drivers either but I reckon it wouldn't be too hard (if you were to use what's already out there, building on the shoulders of giants etc). By 'straight line' do you mean of the effector, i.e.
The reverse kinematics part? Could it be set by encoder pulse inputs, rather than coordinating motor step output pulses?Are you sure?. Hi Dan, when you were coming up with your design, what did you think about strategies to move the motors further 'back' to reduce the moments?
Did the motor masses become less relevant once you set yourself a 2kg @ 50cm payload constraint, or could the mass help counterbalance the arm and payload?iforce2d on YouTube has been attempting a design that you might find interesting.One of the other reasons it might be worth using belts or concentric tube drive shafts to move the motors 'back' is that you could remove the motor axle from the pivot axis at key joints and avoid those BoM-busting bearing prices!For my part, I'm hoping to soon find time to video the latest (nearly a year old!) timing belt strain wave gear. It's OK but I'm not sure how much it will handle higher moments with rubber belts. I saw the recent AvE video on the hypocycloidal(?) Japanese gear and am inspired. Maybe a cnc plastic version with small deep groove bearings is feasible?Are you sure?. What I think is 'how?' Either I use gearing, which doesn't work over long bones; or timing belt, which is hard (for me) to tension and (I'm told) adds a harmonic vibration that reduces overall performance.What are 'concentric tube drive shafts'? Link, please.No bearing is more than $30.
They're not really that bad. Total cost of motors is greater.I'm trying to make something that nearly anyone can recreate. The easier it is to produce, the better. So I've accepted that 3D printing is OK, but most makers don't have CNCs to produce bearings or metal adapters.
Cnc Robotic Arm Software Reviews
I may have to bend and make one or two metal parts for sale.Are you sure?. I admit I haven't tried to tension timing belt and wasn't aware of the harmonic vibration.Not got links for the concentric shafts but given the hollow 'bones' I thought it would be a good approach for rotational transmission. The idea is to nest one, say wood/carbon/fibreglass dowel or tube inside say a PVC or polycarbonate (slightly shorter) tube, separated by a radial/deep groove bearing. A second pair of larger bearings holds the outer tube in the arm. There's a motor coupler on one end of the inner shaft and a drive gear/pulley on the same end of the outer shaft.On the 'far' end of the inner shaft you could transfer rotation to the next bone, perhaps with a universal coupler and a drive gear/pulley on the outer tube to drive the joint at that location.I've wondered about two similar shafts in parallel instead.I see the bearings aren't individually expensive now.Without going too off-topic, I know you are considering encoders in future.
What kinds are you thinking would be on the shortlist?Are you sure?. Nice Project! But I wonder if you are giving a way much strength and stiffness by using open cross section profiles (H and C) for the arm. In my experience constructions made out of plywood and with finger joints are much stiffer if they are closed all around.
Holes in the walls are often not a big problem but missing walls weaken the parts notably - especially wrt (lateral) torsion.It is a bit difficult to judge just from the pictures but it also seems that the different axis of the arm have different strengths - limiting the capabilities to the weak ones. Especially the NEMA17 motor for the first axis looks much weaker than the linear actuators for axis two and three, given that is also has to deal with the full length of the arm as a leaver.It's a bit of a pity that you do not have a video with the arm under load or fast movement, so the strength and stiffness is more visible.Are you sure?. So you are doing all of the forward and inverse kinematics from first principles?
I've managed to logic out the geometric relationships for my arm because the axis pairs intersect which simplifies the maths. I've then moved all of that into excel to visualise it and plan on using that to implement it in Linux CNC. It works out fairly simple because the alpha, beta and gamma angles fix the position of the 3rd link in space, thereafter it's a matter of working back through each joint position. Because of the geometry I chose there is only one solution to the set of equations and it's not necessary to use matrices to solve. How are you handling it? I have a Reprap Ormerod and initially I had some trouble with the software.
It turned out that the PSU supplied was not supplying a stable voltage to the controller and when the heated bed switched on it would freeze. I went for an industrial PSU with a much higher rated amperage and the problem disappeared. It did however put me off using an arduino based controller considering how easily my first Linux CNC set-up went.Are you sure?. I had a random thought: If you take that whole arm section and put it in a 2 axis gambol, centered around the elbow joint (with the elbow being the outside joint), you could get a true R-R-R spherical wrist, without twisting the belts. The entire section you have now would rotate around the center axis. With a circular track around the edge the track race could then form the elbow joint on the out side.
You could actuate it with a third counterbalance motor and a gear interface to the outer track.Are you sure?.